Ankle shoes with toggle fastening apparently were in use for about 200 years, from around 850 to 1050 AD. The shoe reconstructed here fastens with a single flap and toggle. The majority of the finds of this type from York are dated to ca. 930 - 975 AD.
This turnshoe is made of a one piece upper, stitched to a sole with a triangular heel extension that is typical for this type. The upper is calf, the sole cow leather. It employs a tunnel stitch construction except for the area of the v-shaped heel extension of the sole, which is done with a flesh/edge stitch.
As the two holes at the seat and the tread of the original sole shows the shoe was made on a last.
The upper edge of the shoe shows traces of stitching but no indication of a top band remains, which is why I decided to go for a simple whip stitch decoration.